FREE PATTERNS


Floral Cami As commissioned by Caron International

This pattern has been very popular on ravelry and is also available at Caron.com. In celebration of spring, I decided I would also make it available on my blog. One word on execution - the sizing is generous and the net stitch is known for being stretchy, so if you are on the small side of any size, make yourself one size smaller. It's pretty easy, maybe even slightly boring for an accomplished crocheter, but something that you can finish quickly and is very versatile.



SIZES
Small (Medium, Large)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust 36 (40, 44)", Length 21 1/2 (21 1/2, 23)", including straps
MATERIALS
Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m): #9701 White, 2 (2, 2) skeins
Crochet hook: one size US H/8 (5mm), or size to obtain gauge
Stitch markers
yarn needle
2 yards ribbon, in white or contrast color, 3/4" – 1" wide

GAUGE
In Hexagonal Net stitch, 9 sts and 5 rows = 4"/10 cm

SPECIAL TERMS
Picot: Ch 3, slip st in top of dc.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch); Double crochet (dc); Single crochet (sc)

NOTES
1. Cami is sized for layering and has a certain amount of flexibility due to the stitch pattern.
2. Front and Back are joined at underarm; sides are laced together with ribbon.
3. Stitch pattern looks the same on both sides; indications for RS, when beginning upper edging, is for clarification of what will now be the RS of the piece.

BACK and FRONT (both alike)
Loosely chain 82 (94, 106).
Row 1: Beginning in tenth ch from hook (counts dc, ch-space), dc in tenth ch, * ch 4, skip 3 ch, dc in next ch; repeat from * across, end dc in last ch, turn—19 (22, 25) ch-4 spaces, 20 (23, 26) dc.
Row 2: Ch 8 (counts as dc, ch 4), * dc in ch-4 space, ch 4; repeat from * across, end dc in turning ch-space, turn.
Repeat Row 2 for Hexagonal Net st until piece measures 9 (9, 10)" from beginning.
Upper Edging: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first dc, work 3 sc in first ch-4 space, [sc in next dc, work 3 sc in next ch-4 space] 3 (4, 5) times; * ch 2, dc in next ch-4 space, ch 4 (strap space), dc in next ch-4 space, ch 2 *; repeat [ to ] 7 (8, 9) times; repeat * to * once for second strap space; repeat [ to ] to last ch-space, end last repeat, work 3 sc in turning ch.
Fasten off.

LOWER EDGING
With RS facing, attach yarn with a slip st to corner ch-space.
Row 1: Ch 6 (counts as ch-space), * sc in next ch-space of base ch, ch 4; repeat from * across, end sc in last corner space, turn—18 (21, 24) ch-4 spaces.
Row 2: Ch 5, * sc in ch-4 space, work 8 dc in next ch-4 space, sc in next ch-4 space, ch 4; repeat from * across, end sc in last ch-space, ch 5, sc in same ch-space, turn—6 (7, 8) 8-dc fans.
Row 3: Ch 4, sc in ch-5 space, * work [dc, picot] in next 7 dc, dc in next dc, sc in ch-4 space; repeat from * across, end sc in last ch-space, ch 4, sc in same space, turn.
Row 4: Ch 4, dc in sc, ch 4, * skip 2 picots, sc in third picot, ch 4, skip 1 picot, sc in next picot, ch 4, skip 2 picots, dc in sc, ch 4; repeat from * across, end sc in last ch-4 space, turn.
Row 5: Ch 8, skip first ch-4 space, * sc in ch-4 space, work 8 dc in next ch-4 space, sc in ch-4 space, ch 4; repeat from * across, end ch 8, sc in last ch-4 space, turn.
Row 6: Ch 4, sc in ch-8 space, * work [dc, picot] in next 7 dc, dc in next dc, sc in ch-4 space; repeat from * across, end sc in last ch-space, ch 4, sc in same space, turn.
Rows 7 – 9: Repeat Rows 4 – 6.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
With WS's together, join side seams approximately 2" from underarms down toward lower edge, leaving remaining seam open.

Straps
Row 1: Join yarn with a slip st to ch-4 strap-space on Back; ch 35 (35, 41), join to ch-4 strap-space on Front with a sc; work a second sc in ch-4 space, turn.
Row 2: Sc in first ch of strap, * skip next ch, ch 1, sc in next ch; repeat from * to end (Back).
Fasten off.
Repeat for opposite strap.
Weave in ends.

Lacing
Cut two strands of ribbon, approximately 36" long. Lace sides together from underarm seam to beginning of lower edging; tie securely.





Easy Knit Chunk-Style Fingerless Gloves Designed for Crocheters Who Only Know a Little About Knitting In the Round
Designed by Lisa Gonzalez
Skill Level : Easy (because crocheters are awesome at pretty much any yarn craft)

Ok, I admit, with head hanging low, that I jumped on the fingerless glove bandwagon and came up with this pattern for my girls, ages 7 and 10.  Ok, I declare, with head held high, that I love these things - they are fun to make, a great use of scrap yarn, cute, and can be nifty gifts.  They are also a good way to get your knitting in the round thing going without investing a huge amount of time or effort.  As a crocheter, the whole knitting in the round thing is (was)somewhat of an intimidating mystery to me.  I used two different types of yarn for two very different results, one a basic chunky the other a super bulky novelty yarn.  Experiment and enjoy!

Materials:

  • Chunky or Bulky Yarn (one skein or large ball should be more than enough)
  • One set size 8 double pointed needles
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker
  • Stitch holder
CO 24 evenly on three DPNs.  Use stitch marker to mark first st of each round.  (tip: For the first few rows, knitting with these things is pretty cumbersome and clanky.  Just keep moving forward, as you do when crocheting in the round.  I don't know if there is any special fancy way to join, but I just CO and did the first round as I would if I was doing rows and when i got to the end, just kept going in the same direction with the DPNs.  Additionally, in order to avoid a gap that naturally occurred when I always switched to the next DPN at the same place, I tried to work one or two more or less stitches before switching to the next DPN on each row, thereby randomly moving the space and achieving a more uniform stitch gauge all the way around.)

Work in P1, K1 rib for 2 inches.
K for approx. 4 inches, although this is where you could customize per your subject's physiology or desires.
Next round, K6 and then place worked stitches on stitch holder, to create thumb hole.  Continue to work rem stitches in the round for approx. 2 1/2 in.  Bind off loosely.
To finish thumb, work stitches on stitch holder and pick up another 6 sts at top of thumb hole and continue to work thumb for approx. 1 1/2 in.  Bind off.
Weave in all loose ends.  Bow to accolades from your kids when you present them!



 
Sweat Blossom MP3 Arm Wallet
Designed by Lisa Gonzalez
Skill Level : Easy+

Either working out at the Y or just out and about, wanting music AND free hands, this MP3 player is designed to be cute and practical.  It is made from 100% cotton, much cooler than the nylon arm wallets available in mass market.  As a result, it is breathable, washable, and very comfortable.  Better still, you make it yourself and it is uniquely you!  The arm band uses a smallish button to fasten, which gives you the ability to clasp between any stitches that are comfortable for you.  The flower/pocket can be personalized with color and, best of all, this project can be made entirely of scraps!

Finished Measurements:  Band is approx. 13" x 2 ½" (this may vary, depending on whether or not you customize for the subject arm).  Flower is approx. 3 ¼" in diameter.

Pattern Note:  This arm band is measured to fit the arm of a woman of average height and weight.  For optimum fit, measure the arm of the person who will be wearing it and subtract 1 in. to make the fit snug.

Materials:

  • Lily Sugar 'n' Cream Solids
    • Bright Navy (2.50 oz / 71 g; 120 yd / 109 m); approx. 20 yards
    • Hot Blue (very small amount)
    • White (very small amount)
  • Size G crochet hook
  • One button, approx ½ in. diameter
  • Yarn needle

Arm Band:

With Bright Navy, Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and rem chs. 6 sc

Row 2:  Turn. Ch 1.  Sc in ea sc across.

Row 3:  Turn.  Ch 1.  Sl st in first sc.  Ch 4.  Sl st in last sc.  (This creates the "slot" where the "tab" will be pulled through when wearing.)
Row 4:  Turn.  Ch 1.  Sl st in first st.  5 sc in ch-4 sp.  Sc in last st. 7 sc.

Row 5:  Turn.  Ch 1.  (Sc in sc, dc in next sc) 3 times.  Sc in last sc.

Row 6:  Turn.  Ch 1.  (Dc in sc, sc in dc) 3 times.  Dc in last sc.

Rep rows 5 and 6 until piece measures approx. 10 in. (or 1 in. less than upper arm circumference; see Pattern Note above).

"Tab" section of Arm Band:

Next Row:  Turn.  Ch 1.  Sl st in first sc.  Sc in next 5 sc.  Sl st in last st.

Next Row:  Turn.  Ch 1.  Sk first st.  Sc in rem 5 sc.

Next Row:  Turn.  Sk first sc.  Sc in rem 4 sc.

Work even until tab is approx. 2- 3 in.  Fasten off.

Flower Pocket:

With Light Blue, Ch 6, join w sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1:  Ch 1.  (Sc in ring, ch 3) 12 times.  Join w sl st to first sc.  Finish off.  12  ch-3 sps.

Rnd 2:  Join White with sc in any ch-3 sp.  (Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) around, ch 1, hdc in first sc to form last ch-3 sp.

Rnd 3: (Ch 4, sc in ch-3 sp) around, ending with ch 4 and sl st in first sc.  Finish off and weave in loose ends.

Assembly:

Sew Flower Pocket to Arm Band.  Be sure to leave the top side unsewn so MP3 player can slip into the pocket.  Sew button approx., 4 in. from end of band that has the "tab."

To wear the Arm Wallet, pull the "tab" through the "slot", fold it back, and button it using one of the spaces between stitches.  This method allows a great deal of flexibility.  If desired, place more than one button on the band, for additional fastening.

If desired, and for added security, when using the Wallet, weave cord of ear buds through the open work of the flower.  Work out, get rockin', enjoy!  £
© Lisa Gonzalez




Queen Trixie's Pet Placemat

 
designed by Lisa Gonzalez

Skill Level: Beginner +

We love our pets and treat them like royalty.  Like royalty, however, there are certain things they never have to do, like clean up after themselves.  This placemat will assist slaves like us who are the ones left to clean up after their meal.  It isn't a new idea, but a nice personal touch and, while your pet may never really appreciate your dedication, at least your floor will.  Super easy and fast so you can have several to pick from while the dirty ones are in the wash.

Materials:

  • Red Heart Super Saver, 100% Acrylic, worsted weight, approx. 3 oz or 160 yd., dark green
  • Worsted weight scraps, grey and black (less than an oz ea) contrasting for fish
  • Size H crochet hook
  • Yarn needle

Finished measurements:  Approx. 17 ½" x 11"

Pattern Stitch (sc picot):  insert hook in stitch, YO and pull up loop, ch 3 in new loop ONLY, YO and pull through both looks on hook.  Push picot to back (RS) of work.

PLACEMAT:

With green, ch 60.

Row 1 (WS):  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and rem chs.  59 sc.

Row 2 (RS):  Turn, ch 1, sc across.

Row 3:  Turn, ch 1, 3 sc, *ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc across ending with 3 sc in last 3 sts.

Row 4:  Turn, ch 1, 3 sc, *2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next sc *, rep from * to * across ending with 3 sc in last 3 sts.

Row 5:  Turn, ch 1, 3 sc, *sc picot, sc across*, rep from * to * across ending with 3 sc in last 3 sts.

Row 6:  Turn, ch 1, sc across.

Row 7:  Turn, ch 1, 3 sc, sc picot, 51 sc, sc picot, 3 sc.

Row 8:  Turn, ch 1, sc across.

Rep rows 7 and 8 until piece measures 9" from beg, ending with a RS row.

Next row:  Rep row 5.

Next row:  Rep row 6.

Next row:  Rep row 3.

Next row:  Rep row 4.

Next 2 rows:  Turn, ch 1, sc across.  Finish off.  Weave in loose ends with yarn needle.

DEAD FISH (Make 3):

With grey, ch 6.

Row 1:  Turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next 2 ch, sl st in last ch.

Row 2:  Turn, sk first sc, 2 sc, sl st in last sc.

Row 3:  Turn, ch 1, 3 sc.

Row 4:  Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc, 2 sc in last sc.  (5 sc)

Row 5:  Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc.  (7 sc)

Row 6:  Turn, ch 1, sc across.

Row 7, 8, 9:  rep r 6

Row 10:  Turn, sk first sc, 5 sc, sl st in last sc.  (5 sc)

Row 11:  Turn, sk first sc, 3 sc, sl st in last sc.  (3 sc)

Row 12:  Turn, 2 sc in first and second sc, sl st in last sc.  Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

FINISHING:

With black and yarn needle put X's for an eye on each dead fish and sew randomly on placemat.  If desired, weave contrasting strand of yarn through ch-2 space row.  If your pet is an enthusiastic eater, and tends to push his or her bowl across the floor, consider attaching foam squares to the bottom of the placement to help prevent it sliding.




Lilac Bush Lattice Scarf

Designed by Lisa Gonzalez

Skill Level – Easy



Spring, we need you now!  Here in Minnesota, we still have plenty of snow, but there are ways to force the issue.  One of those ways is to adorn the spring accessory as often as possible, regardless of the snow banks you must navigate to get where you are going.  This scarf is light, colorful, and will keep you focused on what is important – your outlook and your complexion.  Don't know about you, but I can't do the usual Easter pastels in the spring, having the washed out, vitamin-D lacking color so common in the north.   I need intensity and contrast.  In this pattern, I have chosen a worsted cotton/modal blend in Grass Green and Sunflower, and a bamboo/acrylic blend in Berry Frappe.  I was thinking the natural progression of sun, leaves, and lilacs and longing for that natural progression to start NOW!

Materials:

  • Worsted yarn, approx. 50 grams/75 yards each of Grass Green (A), Sunflower (B), and Berry Frappe (C)
  • Size G crochet hook
  • Yarn needle

With A, Ch 240

Row 1:  Dc in 10th ch from hook, *Ch 3, sk 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch, rep from * across to end.  Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 5, sk (first dc, ch 1), 1 sc in next ch, ch 3 , 1 sl st in sc just made, ch 2, sk 1 ch, *dc in dc, ch 2, sk 1 ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 3, sl st in sc just made (picot), ch 2, sk 1 ch, rep from * across, ending w 1 dc in last ch.  Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 6, sk (first dc, ch 2, picot, ch 2), *dc in dc, ch 3, sk (ch 2, picot, ch 2), rep from * across, ending w 1 dc in last ch.  Switch to B.  Turn.

Rows 4 – 5:  Rep rows 2 – 3.

Row 6:  Rep row 2.  Finish off.

Row 7:  Join C w sc n first ch-2 sp, *ch 3, sc in picot, (ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp) 2 times, rep from * across, ending w sc in last ch-2 sp.  Turn.


Row 8:  Ch 1, *sc in sc, ch 3, rep from * across ending w sc in last sc.  Finish off.  Weave in all loose ends.  Wear and be a goddess of spring! £

Spring Forth Potholder

Designed by Lisa Gonzalez



Skill Level: Easy

Another easy level (dare I say "beginner"?) potholder created with two identical rectangles constructed separately and then assembled.  The inspiration for this handy item was an incredible February thaw here in Minnesota wherein the temps reached 53 degrees – unheard of in this neck of the woods!  My lawn was peeking out of the snow (which had been piled up over 3 feet the day before) as it melted away, the sun was bright and warm and my thoughts were of bright greens, soft cotton, and little crocheted frills.

The basic stitch pattern is the crunch stitch, which I have been jazzed about lately.  It involves alternating hdc and slip stitch and creates a nice texture that is bumpy, without being stripey, and has a lovely diagonal slash look.  It feels like and extreme mono tweed!

Materials:
  • Two balls Lily Sugar 'n; Cream, or other 100% cotton yarn
(approx. 2.5 oz./ 120 yds per ball); 2 balls Hot Green, one ball Lime Stripes
  • Size G crochet hook
  • Yarn needle

Gauge:
15 st and 16 rows in pattern stitch = 4 in. x 4 in.

Stitches used:  Ch, sc, sl st, hdc.

Finished measurements: Approx.

Potholder Panel (Make 2):

Ch 31

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *hdc, sl st across, with sc in last st.  30 st.

Row 2:  Turn. Ch 1, sc in sc, *hdc in sl st, sl st in hdc, with sc in last sc.

Rep row 2 total of 28 rows, or until piece measures approx. 6 ½ in. from beg.  Fasten off.

Assembly:

Row 1:  Crochet two panels together evenly with a row of sc, working 3 sc in same st at corners.  Join to beg sc.  Switch to CC.

Row 2:  *Sc, ch 3, sk 2 sc, sl st in next sc* around.  Join w sl st to first st.

Row 3:  *4 sc in ch-3 sp, sl st in sl st* around.  Join w sl st to first st.

Row 4:  *Ch 4, sk sc and sl st in sl st* around.  Join w sl st to first st.  Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.  Yum!  £


© Lisa M. Gonzalez




Seed Stitch Share-Me Skull Cap

Designed by Lisa Gonzalez



Skill Level: Easy+

Based in a simple design worked in the round, this skull cap can easily be customized for a variety of looks, male and female.  Using a simple seed stitch for texture, the cap is interesting to look at while not being too much – just enough to enhance and compliment your cute mug.  Included are instructions for a button on flower and leaf.  Make several in a variety of colors to create a look that is completely you and changes with your mood.  Skip the flower when the aim is no-frills.  The hat is worked with a triple strand of worsted weight yarn, giving you another opportunity to create a unique piece of headgear by experimenting with what you have in your stash, what you see in the store, and whatever you have your eye on that needs just the right project.


Materials:
  • One skein Simply Soft /100% Acrylic/ Worsted / Sand 0006 (approx. 315 yds/6oz skein) divided into three equal balls (winter version)
  • OR ribbon yarn of your choice (no need to use triple strand) (spring version)
  • Size L crochet hook (for cap)
  • Size H crochet hook (for flower and leaf)
  • Small amount of contrast color for flower and leaf, if desired
  • Yarn needle

Gauge:  9 rows and 9 sc = 4 in. x 4 in. (using three strands together and L hook)

Stitches used:  Ch, sc, hdc, dc.

Finished measurements: Approx. 25 in. diameter.

Pattern Note:  Cap is made with three strands crocheted together.  Flower and leaf are made with one strand.


Skull Cap:

Ch 4, join in first ch to make a loop.

Rnd 1:  Ch 1, 8 sc in center loop.  Join to back loop only of first sc.

Pattern Notes:  Work sc rnds 2 - 8 in front loops only and there is no turning.  The rem rnds are worked in front and back loops and you will turn when starting a new rnd.

Rnd 2:  Ch 1, 2 sc in same st and in ea st around.  Join to back loop only of first sc.  16 sc.

Rnd 3:  Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 7 times around.  Join to back loop only of first sc.  24 sc.

Rnd 4:  Ch 1, sc in same st and next sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 7 times around.  Join to back loop only of first sc.  32 sc.

Rnd 5:  Ch 1, sc in same st and next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 7 times around.  Join to back loop only of first sc.  40 sc.

Rnd 6:  Ch 1, sc in same st and next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 7 times around.  Join to back loop only of first sc.  48 sc.

Rnd 7:  Ch 1, sc in same st and in ea sc around.

Rnd 8:  Ch 1, sc in same st and next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 7 times around.  Join to back loop only of first sc.  56 sc.

Rnd 9 (WS):  Turn.  Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 1, sk sc, sc in next sc.  Rep from * around, ending with a ch 1, sk last sc, join to both loops of first sc.  28 sc, 28 ch-1 sp.

Rnd 10 (RS):  Turn.  Ch 1, *sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk sc.  Rep from * around, ending with a ch 1.  Join to both loops of first sc.

Rnds 11 – 19: Rep rnds 9 and 10.  Finish off.

Carnation:

Ch 5, join w sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1 (RS):  Ch 1, 8 sc in ring, join w sl st to front loop only of first sc.

Rnd 2:  Ch 1, sc in front loop only of same st and each sc around, join w sl st to both loops of first sc.

Rnd 3:  Ch 1, working in both loops, sc in same st, hdc in next sc, (sc in next sc, hdc in next sc) around, join w sl st to first sc.

Rnd 4:  Ch 3, working in free loops of sc on rnd 1, sl st in first st, ch 1, 2 sc in same st and in each sc around, join w sl st to front loop only of first sc.  16 sc.

Rnd 5:  Ch 1, sc in front loop only of same st and ea sc around, join w sl st to both loops of first sc.

Rnd 6:  Working in both loops, 4 hdc in same st, skip next sc, sl st in next sc, sk next sc, *4 hdc in next sc, sk next sc, sl st in next sc, sk next sc.  Rep from * 2 times more, join w sl st to first hdc.

Rnd 7:  Ch 2, working in free loops of sc on rnd 4, sl st in first sc, ch 1, sc in same st and in ea st around, join w sl st to front loop only of first sc.  16 sc.

Rnd 8:  Working in front loops only, 4 hdc in same st, sl st in next sc, (4 hdc in next sc, sl st in next sc) around, join w sl st to first hdc.  32 hdc.

Rnd 9:  Ch 2, working in free loops of sc on rnd 7, sl st in first st, ch 1, 2 sc in same st and in ea st around, join w sl st to front loop only of first sc.  32 sc.  Finish off and weave in loose ends.

Leaf:

Ch 8 loosely.

Rnd 1  (RS):  Sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 3 chs, ch2, sl st in last ch, ch 2.  Working in free loops along opposite side of beg ch, dc in next 3 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next ch.  Do not join, finish off, weave in loose ends.

Sew button on wrong side of carnation and leaf and attach to anywhere on the hat.  Have fun and keep your bad hair days to yourself.  £



© Lisa M. Gonzalez




Ribs for Dinner Potholder

Designed by Lisa Gonzalez

Skill Level: Easy+

The basic construction of this potholder is incredibly simple – two rectangles crocheted together – and
creates a very sturdy, very thick potholder that can also be used as a trivit.  The stitch pattern you use, a front post double crochet, creates nice texture integrating form and function.  The piece is edged in a reverse single crochet and, like any potholder worth its salt, it has a handy loop for hanging near your stove.



Materials:
  • Two balls Lily Sugar 'n; Cream, or other 100% cotton yarn (approx. 2 oz./ 95 yds per ball)
  • Size G crochet hook
  • Yarn needle

Gauge:
18 rows and 14 sts in pattern st = 4 in. x 4 in.

Stitches used:  Ch, sc, dc, frpdc, rev sc.

Finished measurements: Approx. 7 ½ in. x  9 in.

Potholder Panel (Make 2):

Ch 31

Row 1:  Dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in ea ch to end.  Turn.  (29 dc).

Row 2:  Ch 1, skip first dc, 1 sc in ea dc, ending with 1 sc in 3rd ch of foundation ch.  Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 2, skip first sc, *1 fpdc around dc in row 1 (below next sc and skipping this sc), 1 sc in next sc.*  Rep from * to * across, ending with 1 sc in 1st ch of turning ch.

Row. 4:  Ch 1, skip first sc, *1 sc in fpdc, 1 sc in sc.*   Rep from * to * across, ending with 1 sc in last fpdc, 1 sc in 2nd ch of turning ch.  Turn.

Row 5:  Ch 2, skip first sc, *1 fpdc around fpdc below next sc (skipping this sc), 1 sc in next sc.*  Rep from * to * across, ending with 1 sc in turning ch.  Turn

Rep rows 4 and 5 for a total of 30 rows, or until piece measures 7 in. from beg.  Finish off.

Assembly:

Row 1:  With wrong sides together, crochet the two pieces together, beginning at the upper left corner and working 29 sc across to end.  3 sc in corner st and continue down the sides of the piece with 21 sc evenly spaced to corner.  3 sc in corner st and continue across bottom to corner with 29 sc evenly spaced and 3 sc in corner st.  Work 21 sc evenly along last edge of piece and 3 sc in last corner st.  Join w sl st to beg sc. 

Row 2:  Ch 2.  Work rev sc along edges around piece to beg, join w sl st.  Ch 10 and join w sl st to first sc, creating a loop.  Work 10 sc in loop and join to first ch.  Finish off and weave in all loose ends.  Now get cookin'!  £

© Lisa M. Gonzalez



Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)